Momentum balance in shoaling gravity waves: Comment on ’shoaling surface gravity waves cause a force and a torque on the bottom’ by K. E. Kenyon

Author: Ardhuin Fabrice  

Publisher: Springer Publishing Company

ISSN: 0916-8370

Source: Journal of Oceanography, Vol.62, Iss.6, 2006-12, pp. : 917-922

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Abstract