Contents

Preface

List of Illustrations

The Authors

Notes

General Introduction

Origins of the Study

Scope of the Study

Circumstance of Survival of Complete (or Almost Complete) Garments

Chance Finds

Burial Dress

Finds from Archaeological Excavations

Items of Dress Surviving in Treasuries

Garments of Unknown Origin

Life after Life/Afterlife

Sets and Collections of Garments

Weaves and Other Constructional Techniques; Non-Textile Materials; Embroidered Decoration

Inscriptions

Iconography

Imperial/Royal Iconography

Christian Iconography

Heraldry and Other Decoration of Secular Significance

Everyday Wear

Style and Fashion

A Final Word

1 Headgear: Hat, Cap, Hood, Mitre

Introduction

1.1 Orkney Hood

1.2 Bocksten Hood

1.3 York Silk Hood or Cap

1.4 Cap of St Birgitta

1.5 Headdress from Dokkum-Berg Sion

1.6 Little Sampford Hat

1.7 Birette of Prince Fernando de la Cerda

1.8 Composite Mitre from Salzburg

1.9 Mitre with the Martyrdoms of St Thomas Becket and St Stephen

1.10 Jewelled Mitre of William of Wykeham

2 Outer Garments: Copes, Cloaks and Mantles

Introduction

2.1 ‘Star Mantle’ of Emperor Henry II

2.2 ‘Coronation Mantle’ of King Stephen of Hungary

2.3 Mantle of King Roger II of Sicily

2.4 Mantle of Philip of Swabia

2.5 Mantle of Emperor Otto IV

2.6 Mantle of Prince Fernando de la Cerda

2.7 Blue Mantle of St Kunigunde

2.8 Syon Cope

2.9 Hildesheim Cope

2.10 Butler-Bowdon Cope

3 The Priestly Outer Garment: Chasuble

Introduction

3.1 Bell Chasuble Attributed to St Willigilis

3.2 Bressanone (Brixen) Chasuble

3.3 Castel Sant’Elia Chasuble as Reliquary

3.4 Clare Chasuble

3.5 Melk Chasuble

3.6 Striped Egyptian Silk Chasuble

3.7 Erpingham Chasuble

3.8 Italian Voided Velvet Chasuble

3.9 Blue Wool Chasuble with Applied Embroidered Cross

3.10 Fiddleback Chasuble from Munich

4 Body Garments of Wool and Linen: Tunic, Shirt, Alb

Introduction

4.1 Bocksten Tunic

4.2 Greenland Gown with Short Sleeves

4.3 Greenland Gown with Buttoned Sleeves

4.4 Cowl of St Francis of Assisi

4.5 Shirt of St Louis

4.6 Alb Attributed to St Thomas Becket

4.7 Alb Attributed to St Bernulph of Utrecht

4.8 Embroidered Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Cologne

4.9 Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Munich

4.10 Lucera Alb with Embroidered Apparels

5 Rich Body Garments: Tunic, Gown, Overgown, Dalmatic and Tunicle

Introduction

5.1 Saya Encordata of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón

5.2 Pellote of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón

5.3 Striped Pellote of Don Fernando

5.4 Saya Encordata of Prince Fernando de La Cerda

5.5 ‘Golden Gown’ of Queen Margaret

5.6 Dalmatic of St Ulrich

5.7 Mi-parti Dalmatic

5.8 Göss Dalmatic

5.9 Tunicle of Pere d’Urg

5.10 ‘Eagle Dalmatic’ of the Holy Roman Empire

6 Upper Body and Front Fastening Garments: Undergarment, Padded Garment, Coat-Like Garment

Introduction

6.1 Bodice or Brassiere from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf

6.2 Auqueton of the Blessed Isabelle of France

6.3 Rationale from Regensberg

6.4 Greenland Buttoned and Collared Gown

6.5 Rothwell Jack

6.6 Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince

6.7 Pourpoint of Charles of Blois

6.8 Pourpoint of Charles VI of France

6.9 Guibbone of Don Garçia de’Medici

6.10 Guibbone of Duke Cosimo I de’Medici

7 Loin and Leg Coverings: Underpants, Hose, Sock, Buskin

Introduction

7.1 Underpants from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf

7.2 Bocksten Hose

7.3 Greenland Stocking

7.4 Garter from London

7.5 Sock from York

7.6 Sock from Uppsala

7.7 Buskins Attributed to St Germanus

7.8 Buskins of Pope Clement II

7.9 Buskins Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius)

7.10 Buskins of Archbishop Hubert Walter

8 Minor Vestments: Stole, Maniple, Amice, Pallium, Ecclesiastical Girdle, Humeral Veil

Introduction

8.1 Belt of Ailbecunda

8.2 Belt of Witgar

8.3 Pallium with Embroidered Chi-Rho Emblem Associated with St Caesarius of Arles and Later Silk Casing

8.4 Pallium and Casing ‘aux Lièvres’ of Saint Caesarius of Arles

8.5 Matching Stole and Maniple from the Tomb of St Cuthbert

8.6 Maniple of St Ulrich

8.7 Heraldic Stole

8.8 Humeral Veil (?) from Maaseik, known as the Velamen of St Harlindis

8.9 Amice from Munich

8.10 Amice from Cologne

9 Footwear: Shoe, Boot, Slipper, Patten

Introduction

9.1 Pair of Shoes from Oseberg

9.2 Shoe Mounted on a Bone Skate, from York

9.3 London Shoe with Drawstring and Long Toe

9.4 Embroidered Shoe from Bryggen, Bergen

9.5 London Poulaine

9.6 London Patten

9.7 Boots from a Bog Burial Near Peiting

9.8 Shoes of St Germanus

9.9 Shoe Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius)

9.10 Shoes of Archbishop Hubert Walter

10 Accessories: Mitten, Glove, Secular Belt, Possible Headdress Decoration or Cloak Ties

Introduction

10.1 Icelandic Naalbinding Mitten

10.2 Linked Woven Mittens from Iceland

10.3 Episcopal Gloves (St Sabinus Gloves) from Canosa

10.4 Bressanone (Brixen) Episcopal Gloves

10.5 Episcopal Gloves of William Warham

10.6 Reliquary Gloves of Blessed Christina von Stommeln

10.7 Heraldic Girdle of Fernando de la Cerda

10.8 Girdle of Philip of Swabia

10.9 Enamelled Girdle Associated with William of Wykeham

10.10 Possible Headband Decoration or Cloak Tie from the Tomb of St Cuthbert

Glossary

Index