Chapter
1.3.1 Automatic fabric inspection
1.3.2 Computer-aided design and computer-aided manufacturing
1.3.3 Fabric spreading and cutting
1.3.6 Use of radio-frequency identification
1.4 Difficulties in automation
1.5 Advantages and disadvantages of automation
2 - Automation versus modeling and simulation
2.2 The way from idea to technical sheets
2.4.1 System pattern construction
2.4.2 Basic pattern as a modification of three-dimensional forms
2.4.3 Basic pattern as drapery
2.5 Cutting and printing systems
Sources of further information
3 - Automation in production of yarns, woven, and knitted fabrics*
3.3 Global spinning machine manufacturers
3.3.1 Saurer Schlafhorst GmbH & CO. KG, Übach Palenberg, Germany
3.3.2 Rieter AG. Winterthur, Switzerland
3.3.3 Murata Machinery, Ltd., Fushimi-ku, Kyoto, Japan
3.3.4 Savio Macchine Tessili S.p.A., Pordenone, Italy
3.3.5 Lakshmi Machine Works Limited, Coimbatore, India
3.4 Automation in production of sewing threads
3.5 Automation in production of woven fabrics
3.5.1 Multiobjective self-optimization of weaving process
3.6 Automation in production of weft-knitted fabrics
3.6.1 Properties of pattern elements in large circular weft-knitted fabrics
3.6.2 Quality monitoring of knitted fabrics
4 - Automation in fabric inspection
4.3 Conventional fabric inspection techniques
4.3.2 Graniteville “78” system
4.4 Automatic fabric inspection techniques
4.4.1 Statistical approach
4.4.1.1 Autocorrelation function
4.4.1.2 Local linear transform
4.4.1.3 Fractal dimension
4.4.1.5 Cross-correlation
4.4.1.6 Morphological operations
4.4.1.7 Cooccurrence-based features
4.4.1.8 Artificial neural network
4.4.1.9 Bilevel thresholding
4.4.1.10 Histogram analysis
4.4.1.11 Rank-order functions approach
4.4.1.12 Statistical moments approach
4.4.1.13 Eigen filters or independent component analysis approach
4.4.1.14 Local binary patterns approach
4.4.2.1 Fourier transform
4.4.2.3 Wavelet transform
4.4.2.4 Filtering approach
4.4.2.5 Wigner distributions approach
4.4.3 Model-based approach
4.4.3.1 Gauss–Markov random field model
4.4.3.3 Model-based clustering approach
4.4.4 Combination of computational methods
4.4.5 Comparative studies of different model
4.5 Commercial automated fabric inspection systems
4.5.2 Zellweger Uster Fabriscan
4.5.3 Elbit Vision IQ-Tex system
4.5.4 Shelton slow moving vision inspection
5 - Artificial intelligence and its application in the apparel industry
5.1.1 History of artificial intelligence
5.1.2 Current status of artificial intelligence
5.2 Types of artificial intelligence
5.2.5 Artificial immune system
5.2.6 Generalized regression neural network
5.2.8 Other artificial intelligence approaches
5.3 Applications of artificial intelligence in apparel industry
5.3.1 Application of artificial intelligence in fiber and yarn production
5.3.2 Application of artificial intelligence in fabric production
5.3.2.1 Predicting fabric properties
5.3.2.3 Fabric fault detection
5.3.3 Application of artificial intelligence in garment manufacturing
5.3.3.1 Performance of sewn seam
5.3.3.2 Computer-aided design systems
5.3.3.3 Production planning and control
5.3.3.4 Final garment inspection
5.3.3.5 Application in supply chain
5.3.3.6 Application in retailing
5.4 Challenges and future directions of artificial intelligence
5.4.1 Challenges faced by artificial intelligence
5.4.2 Future directions of artificial intelligence
Sources of further information
6 - Automation in spreading and cutting
6.2 The role of automation in textile material spreading and cutting
6.3 Automation in cutting room work process organization
6.3.1 Automated cutting room management system
6.3.2 Automated lay planning
6.3.2.2 Running of different planning scenarios
6.3.2.3 Establishing the marker processing time
6.3.2.4 Performing marker calculations
6.3.2.5 Spreading planning
6.3.2.6 Processing of manufacturing reports
6.4 Automated spreading methods and machines
6.4.1 Automatic spreading machine and its main parts
6.4.2 Automated spreading process
6.4.2.1 Semiautomated spreading process
6.4.2.2 Fully automated spreading process
6.4.3 Automated fabric fault registration
6.5 Automated fabric pattern matching
6.5.1 Semiautomated work methods
6.5.2 Fully automated pattern matching
6.5.3 Multi-ply pattern matching and cutting
6.6 Automated cutting methods and cutting systems
6.6.1 Automated cutting systems
6.6.2 Automated knife cutters
6.6.2.1 The single and low-ply automated cutting
6.6.2.2 The high-ply automated cutting
6.6.3 Automated laser cutters
6.6.3.1 General characteristics of a laser cutter
6.6.3.2 Laser treatment methods
6.6.4 Laser cutting of textiles of different origin
6.6.4.1 Textiles of natural origin (cotton, linen, wool, silk)
6.6.4.2 Textiles of synthetic origin (polyester, nylon, polyamide)
6.6.4.3 Cutting intricate textiles
Fabrics with intricate patterns
6.6.5 The use of water-jet systems for cutting textiles
6.6.6 Multi-purpose cutters
6.6.6.1 Blade cutters plus lasers
6.6.6.2 Blade cutters plus ultrasonic tools
6.7 Fusing of cut components
6.7.1 Continuous fusing press and its main parts
6.7.1.5 Additional equipment
6.7.2 Advanced fusing technologies to avoid fabric shrinkage
6.8 Future trends in automation of textile material spreading and cutting
7 - Automation in material handling
7.1.1 Definition of material handling
7.1.2 Properties of material and processes
7.2 Gripping technologies for textile handling
7.3 Automation in material handling related to high-performance textiles
7.3.1 New conveyer systems
7.4 Digital tracking with radio-frequency identification
8 - Application of robotics in garment manufacturing
8.2 Automation and robotics for sewing
8.3 Computer numerical control technologies for sewing process
8.4 Sewing automats and sewing units
8.5 Robotics for three-dimensional sewing operations
8.5.1 Integrated three-dimensional sewing system
8.5.2 Three-dimensional sewing with robots for preforms
8.5.3 Three-dimensional sewing operations with automated sewing units
8.6 Real-time sewing cell with two lightweight industrial robots
8.7 Advantages and disadvantages of automation in sewing
9 - Automation in sewing technology
9.2 Basic kinematics for continuous and cyclic sewing machines
9.2.1 Kinematics for continuous sewing machines
9.2.1.1 The cam-follower driven kinematics
9.2.1.2 Belt driven kinematics
9.2.2 Kinematics for cyclic sewing machines
9.3 The building blocks of automation
9.3.2.1 Variable restrictors
9.3.2.2 Directional control valves and actuators
9.3.2.4 Filters, regulators, and lubricators
9.3.2.6 Pneumatic circuits
9.4 Evolution of sewing automats
9.4.1 Loading of fabric component
9.4.2 Sewing of fabric component
9.4.3 Unloading of (disposing off) sewn component
9.5 Sewing machines with under bed trimmer
9.6 Sewing machine with automatic bobbin changer
9.7 Sewing automats for gent’s and lady’s shirts
9.8 Sewing automats for casual bottom wear
9.9 Sewing automats for formal wear
9.10 Sewing automats for knitwear and intimate wear
9.11 Sewing automats for nonapparel sewn products
9.12 Sewing preparatory machines with automatic control system
Sources of further information
Brands supplying sewing & preparatory automats
10.2 Body dimensions and garment sizing
10.2.1 Manual measurements
10.2.2 Link between body dimensions and garment dimensions
10.3.1 Body scan techniques and main applications
10.4.2 Derivation of traditional body dimensions from 3D scans
10.5 Virtual fit of garments
10.5.1 Software systems available
10.6 International standardization activities
10.6.1 International Standardization Organization
10.6.2 The North Atlantic Treaty Organization
10.6.3 Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers
11 - Computer-aided design—garment designing and patternmaking
11.1 Role of computers in textile and apparel industry
11.2 Introduction to computer-aided design
11.2.1 Benefits of computer-aided design in designing and garment manufacturing
11.2.2 Historical background of computer-aided design
11.2.3 Application areas of computer-aided design
11.3 Different software used in designing and garment construction
11.4 Computer-aided design for fabric design
11.5 Computer-aided design for apparel design
11.6 Computer-aided design for designing process
11.7 Computer-aided design in patternmaking
11.7.1 Pattern digitizing/scanning
11.7.4 Core of patternmaking suite
11.83 D fashion design and development software
11.8.1 Online mass customization
11.9 Computer-aided design in cutting room operations
12 - Advancements in production planning and control
12.2 Automation in production systems
12.2.1 Manual labor in production systems
12.2.2 Reasons for automation and advanced tools
12.2.3 Strategies for automation and production systems
12.2.4 Advantages of automation
12.2.5 Disadvantages of automation
12.3 Automation in manufacturing systems
12.3.2 Programmable automation
12.3.3 Flexible automation
12.4 Advancements in production planning
12.5 Application of different software and planning tools in production planning and control
12.5.1 Jobpack production suite
12.5.3 ProfitFab enterprise resource planning
12.5.4 Resource Manager DB
12.5.5 OmegaCube enterprise resource planning
12.5.7 SIMATIC IT Preactor advanced planning and scheduling
12.6 Computerized manufacturing support systems
13 - Use of advanced tools and equipment in industrial engineering
13.2.1 Design principles and optimization of work study techniques
13.2.2 Work methods analysis and evaluation based on motion study
13.2.3 Elements of motion
13.2.4 Case study: improvement in work method for a sewing operation
13.2.4.1 Analysis of existing situation
Method observationsAs shown in Fig. 13.21, from an anthropometric point of view, the configuration of the workplace is not good....
Identification of possible improvements and solutions
Elimination of the marking operation
Changing the possibility for label feeding
Changing the way to feed waistbands
13.3 Motion study and standard time setting
13.3.1 Time registration systems
13.3.2 General presentation of SSD4Pro
13.3.3 Case study: analysis of a sewing operation
13.4 Line balancing and work efficiency in clothing manufacturing
13.4.1 Specific efficiency indicators
13.4.2 Case study: evaluation of efficiency of a technological line
13.4.2.1 Analysis of the technological line
13.4.2.2 Direct observation
13.4.2.3 Efficiency indicators of the technological line
14 - Automation in quality monitoring of fabrics and garment seams
14.2 Quality monitoring of woven fabrics
14.2.2 Defect classification methods
14.2.3 Example of machine vision system for fabric production
14.3 Quality monitoring of seams
14.3.1 Current quality problem in the sewing technology
14.3.2 Previous solution concepts
14.3.4 Two-dimensional process—pattern recognition
14.3.6 Laser triangulation and light-section method
14.3.7 Comparison of measurement methods
14.4 Quality monitoring of welded seams
15 - Recent developments in the garment supply chain
15.2 Garment supply chain activities
15.2.1 Design and sample production
15.2.2 Merchandise planning
15.2.3 Production and manufacturing strategies
15.2.3.1 Raw materials (fiber and yarn manufacturing)
15.2.3.2 Fabric manufacturing
15.2.3.3 Garment manufacturing
15.2.4 Intermediaries or logistics service providers
15.2.5 Warehousing and distribution
15.3 Contemporary issues in garment supply chain
15.3.1 Market restructuring
15.3.2 Third party logistics involvement
15.3.3 Product or buyer driven supply chain
15.4 Contemporary trends in apparel supply chain
15.4.1 Comanaged inventory
15.4.3 Collaborative planning and decisions
15.4.4 Responsibility shift from retailer to manufacturer
15.4.5 Product consolidation (factory gate pricing)
15.4.6 Lean transformation
15.4.7 Agile supply chain
15.4.8 Electronic commerce and radio-frequency identification
Automation in Garment Manufacturing
( The Textile Institute Book Series )
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