Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Series: Cosmeceuticals

Author: Dover> Jeffrey S.  

Publisher: Elsevier Health Sciences‎

Publication year: 2008

E-ISBN: 9781437720945

P-ISBN(Paperback): 9781416055532

Subject: R75 Dermatology and Venereology

Keyword: 皮肤病学与性病学

Language: ENG

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Description

This newly revised title helps you incorporate the very latest in cosmeceuticals into your busy practice. Succinctly written and lavishly illustrated, this book focuses on procedural how-to's and offer step-by-step advice on proper techniques, pitfalls, and tricks of the trade-so you can refine and hone your skills...and expand your repertoire.Contains valuable advice from board-certified dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD to help you make the best possible recommendations for your patients.Provides a wealth of color illustrations and photographs that depict cases as they appear in practice so you can visualize techniques clearly.Includes a new chapter dedicated to the future of cosmeceuticals to keep you completely current.Features new uses for botanicals.

Chapter

FURTHER READING

Chapter 2. Cosmeceuticals: Function and the Skin Barrier

INTRODUCTION

THE STRATUM CORNEUM STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION

THE STRATUM CORNEUM BARRIER AND THE ENVIRONMENT

NATURAL REJUVENATION OF SKIN

THE BARRIER IS A CHALLENGE FOR COSMECEUTICALS

NANOPARTICLES

FUTURE PROSPECTS

FURTHER READING

Chapter 3. Cosmeceutical Formulation Considerations

INTRODUCTION

VEHICLES

DELIVERY SYSTEMS

ADDITIONAL FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS WHEN DEVELOPING COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS

SUMMARY

Chapter 4. The Cosmeceutical Marketplace

INTRODUCTION

SAFETY

EFFICACY

COMPLIANCE

MARKETING TRENDS

EDUCATIONAL MARKETING

MARKETING DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 5. Evaluating Cosmeceutical Efficiency

INTRODUCTION

INSTRUMENTAL METHODS THAT ARE RELATED TO VISUAL ASSESSMENTS

INSTRUMENTAL METHODS RELATED TO TACTILE ASSESSMENTS

INSTRUMENTAL METHODS BASED ON PHYSIOLOGIC PROCESSES

INSTRUMENTAL MEASUREMENTS BASED ON PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

FURTHER READING

Part 2: Cosmeceutical Actives

Chapter 6. Retinoids

INTRODUCTION

MOLECULAR BIOLOGY OF RETINOIDS

METABOLISM OF CUTANEOUSLY DELIVERED RETINOIDS

CONCLUSION

FURTHER READING

Chapter 7. Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin E

INTRODUCTION

TERMINOLOGY AND DEFINITIONS

INDICATIONS AND BIOLOGIC ACTIVITY

MECHANISMS OF ACTION

DOSAGE AND PRACTICAL USAGE REGIMENS

CAUTIONS, CONTRAINDICATIONS, AND ADVERSE EFFECTS

CURRENT RESEARCH AND POSSIBLE FUTURE APPLICATIONS

FURTHER READING

Chapter 8. Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin C

INTRODUCTION

OXIDATIVE STRESS, AGING SKIN, AND VITAMIN C

VITAMIN C: EFFECTS ON COLLAGEN AND ELASTIN SYNTHESIS

PHOTOPROTECTION BY VITAMIN C

VITAMIN C AS AN ANTI-INFLAMMATORY

DELIVERY AND METABOLISM OF L-ASCORBIC ACID AND DERIVATIVES

CLINICAL STUDIES REGARDING TOPICAL VITAMIN C

CONCLUSION

FURTHER READING

Chapter 9. Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin B

INTRODUCTION

NIACINAMIDE

PANTHENOL

DISCUSSION

FURTHER READING

Chapter 10. Physiologic Lipids for Barrier Repair in Dermatology

INTRODUCTION

DYNAMICS OF BARRIER RECOVERY

CLINICAL APPLICATIONS OF THE CUTANEOUS STRESS TEST

LIPID COMPOSITION OF LAMELLAR MEMBRANES

LIPID SYNTHESIS AND REQUIREMENTS FOR THE BARRIER

NONPHYSIOLOGIC LIPIDS: MECHANISM OF ACTION

RATIONALE FOR BARRIER REPAIR THERAPY

DEPLOYMENT OF BARRIER REPAIR THERAPY

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 11. Cosmeceutical Botanicals: Part 1

INTRODUCTION

BOTANICAL ADDITIVE MANUFACTURE

BOTANICAL ADDITIVES

BOTANICAL ANTIOXIDANTS

BOTANICAL ANTI-INFLAMMATORIES

BOTANICAL SKIN-SOOTHING AGENTS

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 12. Cosmeceutical Botanicals: Part 2

INTRODUCTION

LARGEST SELLING HERBS

HERBS IN PHOTOAGING CLINICAL TRIALS

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 13. Cosmeceutical Metals

INTRODUCTION

ZINC IN COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS

COPPER IN COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS

SELENIUM IN COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS

ALUMINUM IN COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS

STRONTIUM IN COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 14. Moisturizers: Function, Formulation and Clinical Applications

INTRODUCTION

MAINTENANCE OF NORMAL SKIN INTEGRITY AND WATER CONTENT

PHYSIOLOGIC EPIDERMAL BARRIER REPAIR

CLINICAL IMPACT OF MOISTURIZERS

SIGNIFICANCE OF MOISTURIZER APPLICATION FREQUENCY

SIGNIFICANT COMPONENTS OF MOISTURIZER FORMULATIONS

ESTHETIC CHARACTERISTICS AND SPECIAL MOISTURIZER ADDITIVES

VEHICLE DELIVERY CHARACTERISTICS

THERAPEUTIC SIGNIFICANCE OF MOISTURIZER USE

CONCLUSION

FURTHER READING

Chapter 15. Skin Lightening Agents

INTRODUCTION

SKIN LIGHTENING COSMECEUTICALS

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 16. Exfoliants, Moisturizers and More: AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs

INTRODUCTION

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAs)

SALICYLIC ACID

POLYHYDROXY ACIDS (PHAs)

CONCLUSION

FURTHER READING

Chapter 17. Peptides and Proteins

INTRODUCTION

TERMINOLOGY AND DEFINITIONS

INDICATIONS AND BIOLOGIC ACTIVITY

COSMECEUTICAL PEPTIDE USE

ADVERSE EFFECTS OF PEPTIDES

ON THE FOREFRONT

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 18. Nutritional Antioxidants

α-LIPOIC ACID

UBIQUINONE (COENZYME Q10)

GENISTEIN

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 19. Endogenous Growth Factors as Cosmeceuticals

INTRODUCTION

PHOTODAMAGE EFFECTS ON SKIN TISSUE

BIOCHEMICAL PATHWAYS OF SKIN AGING

GROWTH FACTORS IN WOUND HEALING

TREATING PHOTODAMAGED SKIN

TOPICAL APPLICATION OF GROWTH FACTORS

COMBINATION APPROACHES: LASER PLUS TOPICAL GROWTH FACTORS

PLANT-DERIVED GROWTH FACTORS

MESOTHERAPY

RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH GROWTH FACTORS

PRODUCT QUALITY CONSIDERATIONS

CONCLUSIONS

FURTHER READING

Chapter 20. Sunscreens

INTRODUCTION

CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS

PHYSICAL SUNSCREENS

RATING EFFICACY

PHOTOSTABILITY

DOSAGE AND USAGE

ADVERSE EVENTS

NEW RESEARCH

FURTHER READING

Chapter 21. Cosmeceuticals and Contact Dermatitis

INTRODUCTION

VITAMINS

HYDROXY ACIDS

BOTANICALS

SUNSCREENS

FRAGRANCES

PRESERVATIVES

PATCH TESTING

FURTHER READING

Part 3: The Application of Cosmeceuticals to Dermatologic Practice

Chapter 22. Wrinkles and Fine Lines

Chapter 23. Facial Redness

Chapter 24. Dyspigmented Skin

Chapter 25. Oily Skin

Chapter 26. Dry Skin

Chapter 27. Acne

Part 4: Cosmeceutical Myths

Chapter 28. Acne Cosmeceutical Myths

COSMECEUTICALS DO NOT PRODUCE ACNE IF LABELED NONCOMEDOGENIC AND NONACNEGENIC

MINERAL OIL IS COMEDOGENIC

SUNSCREENS PRODUCE ACNE

VITAMIN E CAPSULES IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF SCARS

GLYCOLIC ACID APPLICATION CAN REDUCE PORE SIZE

TRETINOIN TOPICALLY AIDS IN THE TREATMENT OF ACNE SCARRING

A COMPLEX SKIN CARE REGIMEN OF MULTIPLE CLEANSERS, MOISTURIZERS, AND ANCILLARY SKIN CARE PRODUCTS IS NECESSARY FOR CLEAR SKIN

BREAKOUTS AFTER THE AGE OF 30 IN WOMEN ARE RARE AND WILL BENEFIT FROM SPECIAL SKIN CARE

COSMECEUTICALS CANNOT UNDERGO RELIABLE COMEDOGENICITY TESTING

Chapter 29. Cosmeceutical Antiaging Myths

EXPENSIVE MOISTURIZERS ARE MORE EFFECTIVE

MOISTURIZERS REMOVE WRINKLES

COSMECEUTICALS CAN PRODUCE BENEFICIAL EFFECTS ON FACIAL MUSCLES TO IMPROVE SKIN TONE

BLEACHING CREAMS CAN IMPROVE BROWN SPOTS QUICKLY

GLYCOLIC ACID PEELS MUST HURT TO BE EFFECTIVE

COSMECEUTICALS NEED TO PENETRATE THE SKIN BARRIER TO WORK

TOPICAL FORMULATIONS OF VITAMINS AND SUPPLEMENTS ARE SIMILAR TO PILLS IN EFFECTIVENESS FOR SKIN IMPROVEMENT

VITAMIN-CONTAINING PRODUCTS CAN REVERSE PHOTOAGING

RETINOL IN OVER-THE-COUNTER PREPARATIONS WORKS LIKE PRESCRIPTION TRETINOIN

A SUNSCREEN WITH AN SPF ABOVE 15 DOES NOT PROVIDE ADDITIONAL PHOTOPROTECTION

SELF-TANNING COSMECEUTICALS PROVIDE SUN PROTECTION

NANOPARTICLES INCREASE ANTIAGING COSMECEUTICAL EFFICACY

SCARCE COSMECEUTICAL INGREDIENTS ADD CUTANEOUS BENEFIT

LIP PLUMPING COSMECEUTICALS INCREASE LIP SIZE

Chapter 30. Botanical Cosmeceutical Myths

HYPOALLERGENIC BOTANICAL COSMECEUTICALS DO NOT PRODUCE ALLERGIC REACTIONS

PRESERVATIVE-FREE BOTANICAL COSMECEUTICALS PRODUCE FEWER SKIN REACTIONS

BOTANICAL COSMECEUTICALS ARE NATURAL

BOTANICALLY DERIVED FRAGRANCES DO NOT CAUSE ALLERGIC CONTACT DERMATITIS

BOTANICAL COSMECEUTICALS CAN REDUCE SEBUM PRODUCTION

ANTIPERSPIRANTS CONTAIN CHEMICALS THAT ARE NOT NATURALLY DERIVED AND ARE THEREFORE DAMAGING TO THE SWEAT GLANDS

BOTANICALS AND MINERAL COSMETICS ARE SAFE AND DO NOT CAUSE ACNE

FACE MASKS WITH BOTANICALS IMPROVE SKIN TONE

ALL NATURAL INGREDIENTS ARE SAFER IN SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

NUMEROUS BOTANICALS IN COSMECEUTICALS ARE BETTER

CLEANSERS WITH GROUND BOTANICAL MATERIALS ARE GOOD FOR DEEP CLEANING PORES

TOPICAL BOTANICAL COSMECEUTICALS MINIMIZE POSTMENOPAUSAL SKIN CHANGES

Part 5: New Research in Cosmeceuticals

Chapter 31. Gene Array Technology and the Search for Cosmeceutical Actives

INTRODUCTION

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF GENE ARRAY ANALYSIS

APPLICATION OF GENE ARRAYS TO THE IDENTIFICATION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF ANTIAGING AND ANTI-INFLAMMATORY BIOACTIVE MOLECULES

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 32. Future Cosmeceuticals of Dermatologic Importance

INTRODUCTION

ANTIOXIDANTS

POLYPHENOLS

GENISTEIN

IDEBENONE

GLOBAL REJUVENATION AGENTS

CONCLUSION

FURTHER READING

Chapter 33. PHAs and Bionic Acids: Next Generation Hydroxy Acids

INTRODUCTION

GLUCONOLACTONE: A REPRESENTATIVE PHA

LACTOBIONIC ACID: A POLYHYDROXY BIONIC ACID

MALTOBIONIC ACID: A PLANT-DERIVED BIONIC ACID

USE OF PHAS AND BIONICS IN THE DERMATOLOGIST'S OFFICE

SUMMARY

FURTHER READING

Chapter 34. DNA Repair

INTRODUCTION

SOURCES OF DNA DAMAGE

DNA REPAIR

MEASURING DNA REPAIR

DNA DAMAGE AND PHOTOAGING

DNA REPAIR ENZYMES

CONCLUSION

FURTHER READING

Summary

Index

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