Front Cover

High-Performance Apparel: Materials, Development, and Applications

Copyright

Contents

List of contributors

Foreword

Preface

Chapter 1: Introduction

Part One: High-Performance Fabric, Materials, and Manufacture

Chapter 2: Fibers used for high-performance apparel

2.1. Introduction

2.2. Consideration of high-performance apparel

2.3. Fiber: complex structure

2.3.1. Natural fibers

2.3.2. Animal fibers

2.3.3. Manufactured fibers

2.4. Characteristics of textile fibers

2.4.1. Gross morphology

2.4.2. Chemical structure of fibers

2.5. Key properties of textile fibers

2.5.1. Physical properties

2.5.1.1. Length and fineness

2.5.1.2. Moisture absorption

2.5.1.3. Texture

2.5.1.4. Static electricity

2.5.1.5. Crimp

2.5.2. Mechanical properties

2.5.2.1. Abrasion

2.5.2.2. Dimensional stability

2.5.2.3. Elastic recovery

2.5.2.4. Resiliency

2.5.2.5. Tenacity

2.5.3. Chemical properties

2.5.3.1. Absorbency and wicking

2.6. Cellulose fibers

2.6.1. Applications of cotton for high-performance apparel: ventile fabrics

2.6.2. Moleskin fabrics: manufacture and properties

2.6.3. Flax

2.7. Protein fibers

2.7.1. Silk fibers

2.8. Synthetic fibers

2.8.1. Viscose Fiber

2.8.2. Polyester fiber

2.8.3. Nylon fiber

2.9. High-performance fibers

2.9.1. Meta-aramid: nomex (dupont)

2.9.1.1. Nomex

2.9.2. Para-aramid: kevlar (dupont)

2.9.2.1. Kevlar

2.9.3. High density polyethylene—HDPE: dyneema

2.9.4. High-performance inorganic fibers

2.9.4.1. Glass fibers

2.9.4.2. Carbon fiber: PAN (polyacylonitrile)

2.10. Future trends

References

Chapter 3: Yarn and thread manufacturing methods for high-performance apparel

3.1. Introduction

3.1.1. Yarns for high-performance apparel applications

3.2. Staple yarns

3.2.1. Short-staple (cotton) spinning

3.2.2. Long-staple (worsted) spinning

3.2.3. Variable staple (woollen) spinning

3.2.4. Prespinning operations

3.2.4.1. Blow room

3.2.4.2. Carding

3.2.4.3. Drawing

3.2.4.4. Combing

3.2.4.5. Roving

3.2.4.6. Tow-to-top

3.2.5. Spinning methods

3.2.5.1. Ring spinning

3.2.5.2. Rotor spinning

3.2.5.3. Friction spinning

3.2.5.4. Air-jet/vortex spinning

3.2.6. Postspinning operations

3.2.6.1. Winding

3.2.6.2. Plied and cabled yarns

3.3. Filament yarns

3.3.1. Monofilament yarn

3.3.2. Multifilament yarn

3.4. Composite yarns

3.4.1. Core spinning

3.4.2. Wrap spinning

3.5. Key yarn properties

3.5.1. Linear density (count)

3.5.2. Twist

3.5.3. Tensile strength

3.5.4. Evenness

3.6. Sewing threads

3.6.1. Twist content

3.6.2. Twist direction

3.6.3. Plied and corded threads

3.6.4. Staple-spun threads

3.6.5. Core-spun threads

3.6.6. Continuous filament threads

3.6.7. Thread counts

3.6.8. Lubrication

3.6.9. Mercerized cotton thread

3.6.10. Glace cotton thread

3.6.11. Thread extensibility

3.6.12. Thread packages

3.6.13. Thread quality

3.6.13.1. Evenness

3.6.13.2. Tensile properties

Loop strength

Loop strength ratio

Minimum loop strength

Seam strength

References

Chapter 4: Advanced weaving technologies for high-performance fabrics

4.1. Introduction

4.2. Fibers used for weaving high-performance fabrics

4.2.1. Types of natural and regenerated fibers

4.2.2. Types of synthetic fibers

4.2.2.1. Polyester

4.2.2.2. Polyamides (including nylon)

4.2.2.3. Acrylic

4.2.2.4. Polypropylene

4.2.3. Key fiber properties

4.2.3.1. Fiber length and fineness/linear density

4.2.3.2. Fiber cross-section

4.2.3.3. Fiber crimp

4.2.3.4. Fiber properties

4.2.4. New types of fiber

4.2.4.1. Polyester fibers based on terephthalic acid

4.2.4.2. Microfibers

4.2.4.3. Bicomponent fibers

4.2.4.4. Technical/high-performance fibers

4.2.4.5. Biodegradable/medical fibers

4.2.4.6. Electroconductive fibers

4.2.4.7. Smart fibers

4.2.5. Yarns and weaveability

4.3. Advances in weaving technologies

4.3.1. Warp preparation

4.3.1.1. Direct warping

The direct warping process

Drive to the warper's beam

Beam warping for yarns not requiring size application

4.3.1.2. Section warping

Beaming off

4.3.2. Motion and functions of weaving machines

4.3.2.1. Introduction

4.3.2.2. Primary motions

Shedding

Weft insertion

Beat-up

4.3.2.3. Secondary motions

Let-off

Take-up

4.3.2.4. Auxiliary motions

Warp stop motion

Weft stop motion

4.3.3. Shedding mechanisms in modern weaving machines

4.3.3.1. Tappet-shedding mechanisms

Negative tappet shedding

Positive tappet shedding

4.3.3.2. Dobby-shedding mechanism

4.3.3.3. Jacquard-shedding mechanism

4.3.4. Weft insertions for modern weaving machines (Adanur, 2001)

4.3.4.1. Projectile weft insertion

4.3.4.2. Rapier weft insertion

4.3.4.3. Fluid weft insertion

Air-jet

Water jet

4.3.5. Features of different weaving machines

4.3.6. Weaving technologies for 3D fabric and high-performance fibers

4.3.6.1. Conventional and looms for 3D weaving

4.3.6.2. Purpose-made weaving devices for 3D weaving

4.3.6.3. Classification of 3D woven fabrics

4.3.6.4. High-performance fibers used in making 3D woven fabrics

4.4. Fabric geometry and apparel performance

4.4.1. Fabric geometry

4.4.2. Fabric construction

4.4.2.1. The plain weave

4.4.2.2. Twill weaves

4.4.2.3. Satin and sateen weaves

4.4.2.4. Pile weaves

4.4.2.5. Double-layer fabrics

4.4.2.6. Leno weaves

4.5. Future trends

References

Further reading

Chapter 5: Advanced knitting technologies for high-performance apparel

5.1. Introduction

5.1.1. Knitting high-performance apparel

5.2. Challenges in advanced knitting technology

5.2.1. Advanced knitting technology

5.3. Trends and innovation in knitwear

5.3.1. Compression developments using knitted structures

5.3.2. Knitwear in space

5.3.3. Knits for extreme sports

5.3.4. Knits for performance shoes

5.4. High tech fibers for knitting

5.4.1. New fibers in knitted gloves

5.5. Advances in knitting technology

5.5.1. Weft knitting flatbed advanced technology

5.5.2. Weft knitting circular advanced technology

5.5.3. Warp knitting advanced technology

5.6. Future trends and novel applications

5.7. Conclusion

5.8. Sources for further information

References

Chapter 6: Functional finishes for high-performance apparel

6.1. Introduction

6.2. Functional properties

6.2.1. Wearer protection

6.2.1.1. Fire protection

6.2.1.2. Insect protection

6.2.1.3. Ultraviolet protection

6.2.1.4. Electromagnetic radiation protection

6.2.1.5. Ballistic and stab protection

6.2.1.6. Antistatic protection

6.2.1.7. Biological and chemical protection

6.2.2. Wearer comfort and well-being

6.2.2.1. Thermal regulation and phase change material

6.2.2.2. Moisture management

6.2.2.3. Antiodor

6.2.2.4. Cosmetotextiles

6.2.2.5. Infrared technology

6.2.2.6. Softening finishes

6.2.3. Fabric easy-care properties

6.2.3.1. Hydrophobicity and oleophobicity

6.2.3.2. Self-cleaning

6.2.3.3. Soil-release

6.2.3.4. Wrinkle-free finishes

6.2.4. Fabric shape and appearance

6.2.4.1. Chromic materials

6.2.4.2. Shape memory materials

6.2.5. Fabric medical properties

6.2.5.1. Antimicrobial

6.2.6. Fabric environmental properties

6.3. Yarn processing and finishing techniques

6.3.1. Yarn bulk treatments

6.3.1.1. Melt-spinning

6.3.1.2. Solution-spinning

6.3.1.3. Electrospinning and forcespinning

6.3.2. Yarn surface treatments

6.4. Fabric processing and finishing techniques

6.4.1. Fabric construction

6.4.1.1. Woven fabric

6.4.1.2. Knitted fabric

6.4.1.3. Nonwoven fabric

6.4.2. Coating and lamination and printing

6.4.3. Padding and exhaustion treatments

6.4.4. Plasma treatment

6.4.5. Supercritical Co2 and air-based treatments

6.5. Future trends

References

Further reading

Chapter 7: Joining techniques for high-performance apparel

7.1. Introduction

7.1.1. Joins in high-performance apparel

7.2. Combining

7.2.1. Seams

7.2.2. Seam mechanics

7.2.3. Seam classification

7.3. Connecting

7.3.1. Stitches

7.3.2. Stitch categorization

7.3.3. Welds

7.3.4. Bonds

7.4. Compound

7.4.1. Sealing (taping)

7.4.2. Doping

7.4.3. General applications

7.4.4. High-performance apparel made from woven fabrics

7.4.5. High-performance apparel made of knitted fabrics

7.4.6. High-performance apparel made from stretch fabrics

7.4.7. High-performance apparel made from coated and waterproof fabrics

7.5. Future trends

References

Part Two: Blueprint for High-Performance Apparel

Chapter 8: Design and product development in high-performance apparel

8.1. Introduction

8.2. Design and new product development

8.3. Design process

8.4. User-centered design

8.5. Co-creation

8.6. Consumers as co-creators

8.7. Advances in high-performance apparel for product development

8.7.1. Sustainability

8.7.2. Garment engineering

8.7.3. Technology

8.7.4. Performance properties

8.7.5. Protection

8.7.6. Health and well-being

8.7.7. Manufacturing

8.8. Trends in performance apparel

8.9. Summary

References

Further reading

Chapter 9: Human measurement and product development for high-performance apparel

9.1. Product development for high-performance clothing

9.2. Human measurement for product development

9.2.1. Advances in human measurement for product development

9.2.1.1. Standardization of human measurement

9.2.1.2. Body scanning systems for human measurement

9.2.2. Landmarking for product development

9.2.2.1. Automated landmarking in body scanning

9.2.2.2. Automated measurement from body scanning

9.2.3. Measurements required for product development

9.2.3.1. Sizing vs product development

9.2.3.2. Measurement networks

9.3. Anthropometric and ergonomic considerations for performance garments

9.3.1. Ergonomic considerations of product development

9.3.1.1. Functional ease related to movement, slip and stretch, and hobbling which may occur through fabric parameters

9.3.1.2. Energy use and thermophysiological consideration of pattern construction

9.3.1.3. Layering

9.3.2. Considerations of fit and fit evaluation

9.4. Future directions

9.4.1. Growth of 3D technologies

9.4.2. Developing approaches toward collecting appropriate measurements for pattern development

9.4.3. Developing pattern construction practices

9.5. Sources of further information and advice

References

Chapter 10: Comfort and durability in high-performance clothing

10.1. Introduction

10.2. High performance in clothing

10.2.1. Functional performance

10.3. Apparel comfort

10.3.1. Thermophysiological comfort

10.3.2. Sensory comfort

10.3.3. Psychological comfort

10.3.4. Ergonomic comfort

10.4. Key properties in high performance

10.4.1. Moisture management

10.4.2. Design of high-performance garments

10.4.3. Durability

10.4.4. Sustainability

10.4.5. Intelligent textiles

10.5. Future trends

10.6. Summary

References

Further reading

Part Three: Applications of High-Performance Apparel and Wearable Technology

Chapter 11: Future textiles for high-performance apparels

11.1. Introduction

11.2. Evolutionary pathway of textiles

11.2.1. Interesting background information

11.2.2. Applications of textiles for high-performance apparels

11.3. Smart and intelligent fiber structures

11.4. Future textiles by functional finishing

11.4.1. Thermal regulation finishes

11.4.2. Easy care finishes

11.4.3. Self-cleaning finishes

11.4.4. Superabsorbent finishes

11.4.5. Medical, cosmetic, and odor-resistant finishes

11.4.6. Hydrophobic and oleophobic finishes

11.4.7. Ultraviolet protection finishes

11.4.8. Radiation protection finishes

11.4.9. Biological and chemical protection finishes

11.4.10. Ballistic and stab protection finishes

11.5. Research into textiles for high-performance apparels

11.6. Future textiles for space age materials

11.6.1. New fibers and a new look

11.6.2. The space suit (Fig.11.20)

11.7. Thermophysiological comfort of future textiles

11.7.1. Comfort testing of textiles

11.7.2. Comfort testing of apparel

11.8. Conclusion

References

Further reading

Chapter 12a: Electronics used in high-performance apparel—Part 1/2

12a.1. Electronics used in high-performance apparel

12a.1.1. Introduction to electronics

12a.1.1.1. Concepts and definitions

12a.1.1.2. Electronic components

Sensors

Actuators

Microprocessors

Communication and network technologies

Power supply

Interface technologies

12a.1.1.3. Materials

12a.1.1.4. Microelectronic devices

Do-it-yourself toolkits

12a.2. Electronics incorporated into textiles

12a.2.1. Levels of integration

12a.2.1.1. First generation (side-by-side), also named block-based or added-on technology

12a.2.1.2. Second generation (hybrid), also called microelectronic packaging or built-in technology

12a.2.1.3. Third generation (fully integrated), also named fiber-based technology or textronics

12a.2.2. Conductive textile materials

12a.2.2.1. Conductive yarns and fibers

Hybrid yarns by mechanical spinning approaches

Composite yarns by melt/wet-spinning approaches

Pure CNT yarn spinning approaches

Composite yarns by coating approaches

12a.2.2.2. Conductive fabric by applying coating, printing, or lamination

12a.2.3. Fabrics integration techniques

12a.2.3.1. Woven fabrics

12a.2.3.2. Knitted fabrics

12a.2.3.3. Nonwoven fabrics

12a.2.3.4. Sewing and embroidery

12a.2.3.5. Interconnectors and joining technologies

12a.2.4. Hybrid textile electronic components

12a.2.4.1. Textile electrodes

12a.2.4.2. Textile sensors

12a.2.4.3. Optical fiber sensor

12a.2.4.4. Textile transistors

12a.2.4.5. Textile actuators

12a.2.4.6. Textile circuits and connections

12a.2.4.7. Textile energy supply

12a.2.4.8. Textile antennas

12a.2.4.9. Heating textiles

12a.2.4.10. Textile display

12a.2.4.11. Textile capacitors

12a.3. Future trends

12a.4. Sources of further information and advice

References

Further reading

Chapter 12b: Electronics used in high-performance apparel—Part 2/2

12b.1. The value chain and players

12b.2. Applications

12b.2.1. Sportswear and fitness

12b.2.2. Healthcare, medical and wellness

12b.2.3. Infotainment (connectivity, gaming, lifestyle)

12b.2.4. Military and safety and protection

12b.3. Future trends

12b.4. Sources of further information and advice

References

Further reading

Chapter 13: Fabric handle as a concept for high-performance apparel

13.1. Introduction

13.2. Approaches of fabric handle assessment

13.2.1. Subjective assessment

13.2.2. Objective assessment

13.3. The science of fabric handle

13.3.1. Surface property

13.3.2. Bending properties

13.3.3. Compression properties

13.3.4. Shear properties

13.3.5. Tensile properties

13.3.6. Fabric handle evaluation

13.4. Fabric properties and handle of high-performance apparel

13.4.1. Repellent apparel fabric

13.4.2. Thermal regulating apparel fabric

13.4.3. Pressure apparel fabric

13.4.4. Sportswear fabric

13.5. Conclusions and future trends

References

Chapter 14: Revolutions in wearable technology for apparel

14.1. Introduction

14.2. Wearable innovations for apparel

14.3. Textile based sensing devices used in apparel

14.3.1. Sensors

14.4. Developments in power sources

14.4.1. Mains supply

14.4.2. Energy harvesting

14.4.3. Photovoltaic devices

14.4.4. Energy storage

14.4.5. Lithium based batteries

14.5. Smart textile applications in health and sportswear

14.6. Future trends

14.6.1. Apparel trends

14.6.2. Minaturisation

14.6.3. Internet of things

14.7. Sources of further information and advice

References

Further reading

Chapter 15: High-performance sportswear

15.1. Introduction

15.2. Smart technologies for thermal management

15.2.1. Physiological demand and metabolic rate of the human body

15.2.2. Heat and fluid transport between body, clothing, and environment

15.2.2.1. Materials and technologies for improved thermal conduction

15.2.2.2. Convection in and around sports apparel

15.2.2.3. Optimization of radiant heat exchange

15.2.2.4. Wicking and evaporation of sweat

15.2.2.5. Smart membranes and fabrics for adaptive water vapor transport and thermal insulation

15.2.3. Active heating and cooling

15.3. Compression sportswear

15.4. Wearables in sportswear

15.5. Future trends

15.5.1. Thermal management materials

15.5.2. Soft exoskeletons

15.5.3. Wearables

15.6. Conclusions/outlook

References

Chapter 16: High-performance apparel for protection

16.1. Introduction

16.2. Impact-resistant materials

16.2.1. Industrial materials

16.3. Comparisons between materials

16.3.1. Experimental method

16.3.2. Results

16.3.3. Discussion

16.4. R&D initiatives for enhanced protection

16.4.1. Test methods

16.4.2. Spacer fabrics

16.4.3. Auxetic materials

16.5. Design issues for protective apparel (refer to Chapter 9)

16.5.1. Design principles

16.5.2. Case: protection for rugby players (Tyler and Venkatraman, 2012)

16.5.3. Case: protection for motorcyclists

16.5.4. Hip protectors

16.6. Future trends

16.7. Sources of further information and advice

References

Chapter 17: Composite textiles in high-performance apparel

17.1. Introduction

17.2. Composite materials

17.3. Structure of composites

17.3.1. Matrix materials

17.3.2. Reinforcement materials

17.4. Classification of composite materials

17.5. Advantages and properties of composite materials

17.6. Fabrication of composites

17.7. Composite textiles and apparel

17.7.1. Protective apparel materials

17.7.2. Protective apparel

17.7.2.1. Ballistic protection

17.7.2.2. Fire hazard protection

17.7.2.3. Biological hazard protection

17.7.2.4. Electrical hazard protection

17.7.2.5. Radiation protection

17.7.2.6. Extreme cold and wet weather protection

17.7.2.7. Chemical protection

17.7.3. Space suits

17.7.3.1. Modern space suit: EMU

17.7.3.2. Shrink wrapping space suits

17.8. Future trends

17.9. Conclusion

References

Relevant websites

Chapter 18: High-performance apparel for outdoor pursuits

18.1. Introduction

18.2. Performance characteristics of apparel for outdoor pursuits

18.2.1. Location and terrain

18.2.2. Weather

18.2.3. Energy expenditure and heat generation

18.2.4. Characteristics of clothing for outdoor pursuits

18.3. Base layers

18.3.1. Characteristics of base layers

18.3.2. Fibers and fabrics

18.3.3. Design characteristics of base layers

18.3.4. Compression

18.4. Mid-layer insulation

18.4.1. Characteristics of mid layers

18.4.2. Fibers and fabrics

18.4.3. Design characteristics of mid layers

18.5. Outer-shell layer

18.5.1. Characteristics of outer-shell layers

18.5.2. Fibers and fabrics

18.5.3. Design characteristics of outer-shell layer jackets

18.6. Innovation and future trends in apparel for outdoor pursuits

18.6.1. Market

18.6.2. Super lightweight

18.6.3. Thermal adaption

18.6.4. The future

18.7. Sources of further information and advice

References

Chapter 19: Microchip technology used in textile materials

19.1. Introduction

19.2. Knowledge base on electronic textiles

19.3. Fully integrated electronics within the core of yarns—The next generation of electronic textiles

19.4. Development of electronic temperature sensor (ETS) yarns

19.4.1. Construction of the ETS yarn

19.4.1.1. Interconnects formation (stage 1)

19.4.1.2. Encapsulation of microchip (stage 2)

19.4.1.3. Covering (stage 3)

19.4.2. Testing the ETS yarn

19.4.2.1. Response and recovery times

19.4.2.2. Performance analysis

19.4.2.3. Tensile testing

19.5. Development of a prototype temperature sensor sock

19.5.1. Testing the sock

19.6. Potential applications of electronically functional yarns

19.7. The future

19.8. Conclusions

References

Index

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