Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport
：Proceedings of an Advanced Seminar, Conducted by the Mathematics Research Center, the University of Wisconsin, and the Coastal Engineering Research Center, U. S. Army, at Madison, October 11–13, 1971
Publication subTitle ：Proceedings of an Advanced Seminar, Conducted by the Mathematics Research Center, the University of Wisconsin, and the Coastal Engineering Research Center, U. S. Army, at Madison, October 11–13, 1971
Publisher： Elsevier Science
Publication year： 2013
E-ISBN: 9781483264523
P-ISBN(Paperback): 9780124932500
Subject： P234.2 underwater photogrammetry
Keyword： 天文学、地球科学
Language： ENG
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Description
Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians.
The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.