Front Cover

About the Author

Title Page

Copyright

Contents

Acknowledgements

Introduction

1: A Biography of Jeans

Jeans: A Social History

Designing Denim

Growing Cotton

Ginning, Spinning and Weaving

Manufacturing Jeans

Advertising and Retail

Today’s Jeans Systems of Provision

Theorizing Production and Consumption

2: Clothes and Capital

Bra Wars

Crises of Capitalism

The Origins of Clothes and Uneven Development

Clothing in Ancient Society

Protected Trade in the Feudal Era

Capitalism and the Industrial Revolution

Capital and Colonial Expansion

Capitalism Adapts in the Twentieth Century

The Multi-Fiber Arrangement and the Growth of Fast Fashion

3: The Shadow World of Used Clothing

Clothing in Papua New Guinea

Second-Hand Clothing in Historical Contexts

Waste and Clothing Consumption

Second-Hand Clothing Charities in the UK

The Commercial Trade in Second-Hand Clothing

Oxfam Wastesaver: Processing Clothes for Export

The Second-Hand and New Clothing Trades in Global Context

4: Cotton Is the Mother of Poverty

Africa and Global Markets

Cotton in Colonial Mozambique

Cotton and Structural Adjustment in Côte d’Ivoire

Economic Liberalization and Cotton Subsidies

5: Made in China and Africa

Chinese Economic Expansion

African Attempts at Industrial Modernization

China’s New Investments in Africa

Casualization and Labour Abuses at Mulungushi Textiles

Discipline and Profit

Labour Discontent and the Closure of Mulungushi Textiles

6: Second-Hand Africa

Super Bowl’s Other Winners

Second-Hand Clothes in Africa

Used-Clothing Assignments

Nigeria: Economic Turmoil

Used Clothing Imports and the Decline of African Clothing Industries

7: Persistent Poverty

Growth Without Development in Mozambique

Second-Hand Clothing Imports and Wholesale

Work in the Second-Hand Clothing Sector

The Unusual Case of Humana–ADPP

Shopping for Second-Hand Clothes in Mozambique

8: Old Clothes and New Looks

The M65 US Military Field Jacket

Vintage Fashion in Cities

Japanese Jeans

Used Clothing Markets in the Global South

Upcycling

9: Ethical Clothing Myths and Realities

Toms Shoes

Ethical Consumption in Theory and Practice

Valuing Fairtrade Clothes

Vivienne Westwood and Political Consumption

Marketing ‘Made with Love in Nairobi’

Ethical Recycling and New Cycles of Consumption

Sustainable Fashion

Perspectives on Ethical Consumption

10: Fast-Fashion Systems

London Fashion Week

Making Markets for Second-Hand Clothes

Post-Consumption

Can Production Be Fixed?

Conclusion

Notes

Further Reading

Index

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